Hi Simon,
It depends on what you are expecting to place around trees as a mulch
according to the individual site factors; the type of soil, proneness to
waterlogging, impoverished, heavy clayey,......
I know of Landscape Architects who regard mulch as a decorative
application and specify coniferous bark chip. Although bark may help
retain moisture it has no intrinsic nutritional value for the trees.
Similarly other products with inert properties have been used such as
dried (fresh!) wood chip, plastic tiles, nylon sheets or bio-degradable
Hessian mats. My view is sympathetic to the requirements of tree.
Unless a popular community Planting Event, the successful establishment
of a standard tree within a public area for example would require a
covert operation, and the least attractive the better. Failing that a
'Fort Knox' of a fenced off area using meld mesh attached to four posts
works well. If a community is unresponsive towards the suggestion of
tree planting then why bother.
Backfilling a tree pit, dug to the correct dimensions, i.e. 1 x the
depth and 1.5 x width of the trees roots (bur lapped, bare rooted) with
loosened and prepared soil will be proud of the pit. An additional mulch
application to the depth as already suggested, with a deciduous matured
wood chip and well rotted horse manure placed upon the disturbed soil
will eventually settle after a few weeks to Shigo's recommended 4-6"
depth, requiring fewer top ups.
<Is the root collar covered in 25cm of wood chip or do you leave a space
between mulch and stem?>
The root collar of the tree should be planted to the existing soil
level, the above portion free of soil/mulch, though a rabbit guard might
come in useful.
<Who recommended this course of action? >
Through years of experimentation on certain sites it has worked well for
me.
Ian
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